Mâche, an attractive new restaurant on Montreal’s tacky Latin Quarter strip, specializes in Quebecois comfort food. It’s surprisingly hard to find restaurants that serve paté chinois, ragout de pattes and pouding chomeur in Montreal, so this is a welcome addition to the area. The interior decoration is simple yet effective.
Fries: Greasy fries with a good crispy-chewy texture, but perhaps a little TOO greasy. They have lots of taste despite the lack of salt. Poutine is not meant to be healthy but these fries had absorbed so much oil that they were yellow and glossy. I think they use the Belgian twice-cooked method, but the first cooking could be at a slightly higher temperature so the fries don’t soak up that much oil. Despite all this, I won’t fault them for taste. 27/30
Gravy: The gravy is too hot. It’s also a little bland, but the fries are tasty enough on their own that it doesn’t really matter. The sauce could use a little more personality. 34/50
Cheese: The cheese-to-fries ratio could be better – fewer fries, more cheese. These are good medium-sized chunks with minimal squeak, but a little too melty given the temperature of the sauce. 15/20
Verdict: Good poutine, better than most in Montreal, and better than most of the food on this dreary chain-filled strip of the Latin Quarter.
Price: Good. Six bucks for a proper-sized bowl makes this a good deal, but I’d be willing to pay a bit more for extra cheese.
Location: Restaurant Mâche is a two minute walk from Berri-UQAM. 1655, rue Saint-Denis.