Food trucks are easing their way back into Montreal. Banned in 1947 for hygiene reasons, the ban was kept up for years through the pressure of restaurant lobbyists who feared street food would threaten their establishments. However, with a gourmet food truck revolution sweeping North America, the voices of Montrealers have drowned out the lobbyists. This summer, trucks were confined to public squares and festivals but one hopes that regulations will be eased up over time. In the meantime, join the thousands on this Facebook group fighting for more street food in the city.
Lucky’s Truck is one of the many new food trucks to hit the city this summer. I’m not sure how they managed to avoid Quebec’s language legislation (Is there a loophole for truck signage?) or why they chose to do so (Is it managed by French expats who think English business names sound cool?), but these are secondary considerations. The primary consideration is that they serve up duck confit poutine and that it tastes great.
Fries: Thin julienned fries. They’re a bit soft and greasy, but quite tasty with a crispy exterior that almost defies the greasy droopiness. 23/30
Gravy: It’s hard to pin down the gravy because it melds with the caramelized onions and duck confit but, once isolated, red wine seems to be the dominant flavor. It works really well with the other ingredients without overpowering them, which is what a good gravy should do. 42/50
Cheese: There’s very little cheese in this so-called poutine, and it’s a hard grated cheese, perhaps emmenthal. I struggle to call anything with grated cheese a poutine. Chunks would be better. Nevertheless, the sharp cheese works in this context and creates a nice counterpoint to the sweet caramelized onions. A few proper cheese curds wouldn’t hurt. 10/20
Extras: For once, these extras work. They work really well. I’m generally not a big fan of duck, but this duck confit is outstanding with the other ingredients. The caramelized onions are great. A perfect balance of sweet and savoury with plenty of umami to go around. +10 points
Verdict: Calling it “poutine” is a stretch, but it’s damn good. Try it.
Price: Moderate to pricey – $7.00 for a small portion that works as a side.
Location: See website for details