On my last trek out to Food Truck Friday at the Olympic stadium, I was faced with a bewildering array of choices. Thankfully, a new German food truck in town made my choice easier. They offer two different kinds of poutine: one with chopped up chicken schnitzel and the other with bratwurst. Given that schnitzel is one of my favourite comfort foods, and surprisingly hard to come by in Montreal, this seemed like a winning option.
Some people refer to this classic 1950s diner as “poutine heaven,” and it frequently comes up in discussions about the best poutine in Montreal. It sits in an off-the-beaten-track corner of the working-class neighbourhood of Pointe Saint-Charles. I made the trek out here a few times but it was always closed, being one of those rare casse-croutes that shutters up at 7PM.
Paul Patates is also famous for its starring tole in Quebec TV show Taxi 0-22, which I have never seen given that I don’t own a television.
Southern food isn’t my favourite, but this place in Little Burgundy does it right, and such comfort food is a beautiful thing on a cold snowy day. I love this place. Their bourbon cocktails are delicious. Their pulled pork sandwiches are delicious. Their mac & cheese is delicious. Their buttermilk pie is delicious.
Located in Mile End, Comptoir 21 is best known for fish & chips, which I am told are very good. But here’s a lesser known fact: they may serve up the best poutine in Montreal.
This is a small charmingly rickety snack bar with most table space being an old-school curved lunch counter with revolving seats. It is located on the hipster strip of Saint Viateur and was well-packed with guys in lumberjack shirts sporting perfectly manicured beards and their blasé iphone-toting twentysomething girlfriends with oversized glasses, ugly ironic sweaters and designer rubber boots.
Bedford is a small nondescript town 15km north of the Vermont border. Though founded by British Loyalists, it is now over 75% francophone. Its biggest claim to fame: Quebec disco-funk legend Boule Noire.
The town’s snack bar is called BARRY. Not Casse-croute Barry or Restaurant Barry, just BARRY, in ALL CAPS, like this:
Mâche, an attractive new restaurant on Montreal’s tacky Latin Quarter strip, specializes in Quebecois comfort food. It’s surprisingly hard to find restaurants that serve paté chinois, ragout de pattes and pouding chomeur in Montreal, so this is a welcome addition to the area. The interior decoration is simple yet effective.
Sherbrooke (pop. 201,890) may be the fourth largest metropolitan area in Quebec, but don’t get your hopes up. You drive through some of the ugliest sprawl in Quebec (King street) to get downtown, and there isn’t much going on when you get there. The two universities in Sherbrooke should give the city a youthful vibe, but the campuses are out in the boonies and, judging by the tumbleweeds and boarded-up facades downtown, students don’t spend much time outside their dorm rooms. Because it was settled by Brits and Loyalists, people hype up Sherbrooke as a slice of New England in Quebec, which is true if you’re thinking of a grim post-industrial New England milltown (i.e. Manchester, NH; Lowell, MA) rather than a vibrant and quaint New England college town you might actually want to visit (i.e. Burlington, VT; Northampton, MA). Last but not least, Sherbrooke has the unfortunate distinction of being the hometown of Jean Charest.
But Sherbrooke isn’t all bad. There are a few nice buildings around and a handful of interesting shops and restaurants in the dreary downtown. The city is more ethno-linguistically diverse than most other cities in the province. And it’s right on the edge of Quebec’s poutine heartland, giving it access to lots of good squeaky cheese suppliers. In the words of a friend who was exiled here for a few years: “It’s boring as hell, but they make damn good poutine.”